Revisiting classics is a common practice in the watch world, but few brands have managed to time-travel the design spirit of the 1970s like Favre Leuba, infusing it with modern craftsmanship and aesthetics to create a masterpiece that is both nostalgic and stylish. The Favre Leuba Chief Chronograph, released in 2025, is a vivid example of this.
Design Origins and Appearance
The Favre Leuba Chief Chronograph draws inspiration from the iconic Chrono Valjoux 23 watch from the 1970s. Its 41mm cushion-shaped stainless steel case, a moderate size and 14mm thickness, evokes a vintage aesthetic while also providing modern comfort and presence.
The case top features a vertical brushed finish, while the edges and pushers are mirror-polished, creating smooth and delicate lines that exude a blend of elegance and sportiness. The sleek lugs and oval shape create a dynamic and refined look, adding a modern touch to the overall look.
Dial & Details
The dial is available in three classic and easy-to-match shades: blue, black, and ice blue. Each dial features a sun-brushed finish, enhancing the effect and depth of light. Three three-dimensional, skeletonized subdials feature a swirling pattern, adding a touch of texture.
The hands and hour markers are rhodium-plated, brushed, and sandblasted, then coated with high-performance X1 Super-LumiNova for optimal legibility both day and night. A tachymeter scale is featured on the inner edge, adding a practical sportswear element that doesn’t disrupt the dial’s clean layout.
The three-dimensional Favre Leuba logo accents the center of the dial, serving as both a brand symbol and a nod to the watch’s vintage heritage.
Movement & Performance
This watch is powered by the FLC02 automatic movement, developed in collaboration with renowned Swiss movement manufacturer La Joux-Perret. This movement features a sophisticated column-wheel chronograph mechanism, operating at a high frequency of 4 Hz (28,800 vibrations per hour) to ensure precision and stability.
The movement offers a 60-hour power reserve, ensuring durability and longevity. The transparent sapphire caseback reveals the movement’s Côtes de Genève, pearl-grained finish, and blued screws. The custom-made, skeletonized 18K 4N gold oscillating weight, embellished with sunray and spiral patterns, further enhances the beauty of its craftsmanship.
Strap and Wearing Experience
Favre Leuba offers two strap options for the Chief Chronograph: an integrated rubber strap matching the dial color and a two-link integrated stainless steel bracelet. Both feature a convenient interchangeable strap mechanism for effortless conversion, perfect for different occasions and outfits.
The steel strap, with its H-shaped links, offers a sporty yet formal feel, while the rubber strap offers a more youthful and dynamic look, perfect for everyday exercise or summer wear.
Pricing and Market Positioning
The suggested retail price for this watch is €5,000 (approximately $4,975) for the rubber strap version and €5,100 (approximately $5,075) for the steel strap version. Positioned in the mid-to-high-end sports chronograph market, it combines vintage charm with modern practicality, catering to consumers who appreciate traditional watchmaking craftsmanship and contemporary design.
The Favre Leuba Chief Chronograph 2025 meticulously recreates a classic 1970s design, combining modern manufacturing techniques with practical performance to create a highly collectible and wearable sports chronograph. It is not only a tribute to the brand’s rich history, but also an ideal companion for mechanical watch enthusiasts exploring the philosophy of time.
This watch is ideal for connoisseurs seeking a classic vintage style with an eye for quality and detail, as well as for those who want to express their unique personality and taste in everyday wear.